OLD MINE CUT DIAMONDS EXPLAINED
For lovers of antique jewellery, few stones carry the romance and character of an old mine cut diamond. With their distinctive cushion like shape, larger facets, and warm glow, these diamonds are a window into history - a reminder of craftsmanship from a time long before today’s laser cut precision.
We know a thing or two about antique diamonds. As private jewellers based in Hatton Garden, London, we’ve been working with diamonds for more than 60 years across three generations. Over that time, we’ve curated what we believe to be one of the finest private collections of antique diamonds available today — including some remarkable examples of old mine cut stones. Many of these rare gems are crafted into bespoke antique diamond engagement rings, designed in close collaboration with our clients to create pieces that are as unique as the stones themselves.
What is an old mine cut diamond?
The old mine cut is one of the earliest forms of the brilliant cut and was the dominant diamond style from the early 1700s through the late 1800s. These stones were cut by hand — long before modern diamond cutting technology — with techniques that emphasised the natural beauty of the rough diamond rather than chasing mathematical perfection.
Old mine cuts are characterised by:
A slightly squarish cushion shape with rounded corners.
A small table (the flat top facet).
A large culet (the bottom facet, often visible through the stone).
Chunky facets that catch light in broad, romantic flashes rather than the tight sparkle of modern brilliant cuts.
The name ‘old mine’ comes from the fact that these diamonds were originally sourced from the ‘old mines’ of India and Brazil, before South Africa became the world’s primary diamond supplier in the late 19th century.
Why choose an old mine cut diamond
There’s something truly magical about wearing a diamond with centuries of history. Unlike modern diamonds, which are cut to uniform proportions, each old mine cut is unique — a reflection of the diamond cutter’s hand, eye, and artistry.
Some of the main reasons people are drawn to old mine cuts include:
Character and romance
Their irregularities, softer shapes, and larger facets give them an organic charm that modern diamonds simply don’t have.History and provenance
Every old mine cut diamond tells a story. Many were cut over 200 years ago and passed down through generations. Owning one is like holding a piece of history.Soft, candlelight sparkle
Old mine cuts were designed to dazzle under candlelight. They emit a warm, romantic glow rather than the razor sharp brilliance of today’s cuts.Sustainability
Choosing an antique diamond is one of the most sustainable options — recycling a diamond that already exists instead of mining a new one.
Old mine cut vs. modern cushion cut
A common question is whether old mine cut diamonds are the same as cushion cuts. While they share a similar outline, the two are quite different.
Old mine cuts are entirely hand cut, with charming asymmetry and chunky facets.
Modern cushion cuts are precision cut with advanced technology for maximum brilliance and uniformity.
If you love character, individuality, and romance, an Old Mine Cut is the right choice. If you prefer sleek perfection and symmetry, a modern cushion might suit you better.
Why old mine cut diamonds are back in demand
Antique diamonds are having a real moment. High profile engagements — including celebrities choosing antique stones over modern cuts — have sparked renewed interest in old mine and old European cuts.
In today’s world of mass production, more couples are looking for something unique. An old mine cut engagement ring isn’t just a piece of jewellery; it’s a statement of individuality, heritage, and timeless elegance.
Our expertise with antique diamonds
We’ve worked with diamonds for three generations, and antique stones are a true passion of ours. As private jewellers in Hatton Garden, we offer clients:
Access to rare antique stones that aren’t on the market elsewhere.
Expert guidance on choosing the right diamond for your engagement ring or bespoke jewellery design.
Bespoke craftsmanship, creating jewellery that blends antique character with modern wearability.
Designing with old mine cut diamonds
Because no two old mine cut diamonds are alike, they lend themselves perfectly to bespoke design. Some of the settings we love pairing them with include:
Simple solitaires that let the stone’s character shine.
Halo settings that add brilliance while framing the antique cut.
Vintage inspired bands with decorative details to complement the diamond’s history but with the durability of a modern piece.
Two-tone settings to enhance the warmth of the diamond.
When you commission a bespoke piece with us, we work closely with you to design a ring or piece of jewellery that’s as unique as your diamond — and your story.
How to choose the perfect old mine cut diamond
When choosing an old mine cut, the traditional ‘4 Cs’ (cut, colour, clarity, carat) apply differently than with modern diamonds. Here’s what to keep in mind:
Cut: No two old mine cuts are the same. Look for one that feels right to you — whether more square or more cushion-like.
Colour: Many old mine cuts show warmer tones (H–K or beyond), which add to their charm.
Clarity: Expect natural inclusions. Antique stones often have small quirks, but this only enhances their individuality.
Carat: Because of their depth, old mine cuts can look smaller face-up than modern cuts. Focus on presence, not just carat weight.
Our role is to guide you through this process, helping you find your perfect genuine antique diamond. As demand for antique stones continues to grow, these rare treasures are becoming harder to find.
Get in touch with us today to book a private consultation and explore our collection of old mine cut diamonds.